This article is classified "Real"
One of the railway lines that receives the least attention of the NS
(Nederlandse Spoorwegen = Dutch Rail) is the track between Leiden and
Utrecht. While many major arteries in the densely populated western part
of the Netherlands are being modernized and widened, this line remains a
single track line, and won't undergo any changes in the foreseeable future.
Carriages of the oldest type [1] stop at all stations along the track [2],
and traverse the distance in about the same amount of time a modern train
on the almost parallel track Utrecht-The Hague would need to do it twice.
The old trains can't go any faster even if they want to, because they
would surely leave the rails and pursue a career in aviation [3]. The
rails are so bumpy that every time you take the ride and see your fellow
passengers turn into twins, you are positive that this time there will be a
detour via the hospital. But that doesn't happen. Well, only occasionally,
but that's only when a farmer or road worker forgets that things called
trains cross the unguarded level crossings also.
The view along this track is reasonable. You can see a part of the
so-called "green heart of Holland" [4]: mainly a lot of flat countryside,
meadows in the polders.
Utrecht is a nice city, and so is Leiden. I believe there are some things
that can be done in Alphen [5] and possibly also in Woerden, but I haven't
investigated these villages.
If you like a bit of adventure you are advised to take this route. If you
like comfort better, go via Amsterdam or The Hague.
Tips: 1) Never hold your head close to a wall or window. These will
smack you and give you a concussion.
2) Visiting the toilet increases the feeling of adventure. The
motions of the train force onto you nice games of balance and
a lukewarm experience. That is, if you're a man. Females are
advised to stay clear from this little cabin.
3) Accidents: the front is where the action is.
4) Buy a ticket, because on every ride you are checked, and
violations will cost you dearly.
[1] The Hondekop (= Dog-head) type. This name refers to the strange, but I
guess aerodynamic head (and tail) of the train.
[2] Leiden Central, Leiden Lammenschans, Alphen aan den Rijn, Bodegraven,
Woerden, Vleuten, Utrecht Central. In Alphen aan den Rijn you can
transfer to the track to Gouda, which takes you along Boskoop and
Waddinxveen.
[3] One in which black boxes are essential.
[4] To prevent all cities in the area to merge onto one large "Randstad"
(as the region is already called), bits of green are needed to be left
open in the middle of it, to kind-of serve as parks.
[5] Alphen contains Archeon, a medieval village where actors play the
inhabitants (in heavy financial trouble though), and Avifauna, a small
bird-zoo.